7.09.2008

SURGERY: STAGE TWO

There was some bleeding. The heart was taken from the great black beast last night around 9:30, with much finger-crossing and many whispered prayers. My dear, dear cousin was sweating like a hog in heat as he worked the leveler (a neat gadget that can tilt the engine to get it around/through those tough spots) and inched it out of the bay (that's the cavern that's left when the heart's gone -- looks kind of lonely in there). He worked it just right with enough tilting and coercing and then we encouraged the hood a little higher and some metal softly scraped.....and she was finally free! This was monumental as it meant that we didn't have to take the entire hood off to complete the extraction. I held the flashlight, I asked questions, I even got to pump the hydraulic lift on the engine hoist a couple of times. It was fascinating. I was nervous, giddy, shell-shocked, and a little sad. Adrenaline was pumping and mom and I kept warning him through clenched teeth, "oh don't hurt yourself pleeeeease!!!" No appendages or digits were harmed or lost in the process, I am glad to say.

We cleared the grill with the behemoth engine (probably about 700 pounds) and then lowered it slightly and got it lined up with the engine stand that stood ready and waiting. It is unfathomable to me that this whole piece is held onto the stand with four 3-inch-ish bolts attached on only one side. Unbelievable. Takes a whole new brand of faith to stand next to it and not expect it to falter and render me footless. Yikes. That's the stuff of nightmares. So now it falls to me to order the new engine (which I'll be doing shortly) and to disassemble a few things on the old one.

They are:
- valve covers
- exhaust manifolds
- fuel pump
- harmonic balancer (doesn't that sound way too lyrical to be a part of an automobile??)
- water pump

Can you believe I even know what any of those things are?? I can't! This project is giving me such an education, and Jason is just the best teacher. He wants me to be aware of what's going on and tells me everything that he's doing while he's doing it, I'm sure I ask some stupid questions but he answers them patiently and encourages me when I get something right. This is really fun. I think I may have missed my calling.

7.06.2008

SURGERY

The clock is ticking. It's about time for the much-needed surgery that will surely, eventually, save the life of my dearest friend.

Her name is Ol' Black. She's my pick-up.

Before my trip out west, on the way to church on Sunday morning, she made some truly frightening noises, and screamed to a smoky halt. It has been determined that she threw a rod (either number 3 or 4, we're not sure). What we are sure of is that she is worth saving. By "we" I mean me, my cousin Jason, my auto artisan, Mark Lambert, and anyone who knows how much love I have for this machine. We all deem her more than worthy of the work it will take to bring her back to life on the road, and it all starts today. Jason's on his way over and our first step will be taking out all of the "extraneous componentry." That's just the beginning of the shop-talk I've learned that you'll have to endure in any of my writings of which my lovely truck is the subject. Get ready for some serious mindless blathering.

Say a prayer for sweet Ol' Black. May she grace the road once more with new energy in her lovely guts, and very soon at that.

ADDENDUM:
We chilled in the driveway, washed cars, told stories, drank beer, watched Jason perform his magic, and laughed a lot. The engine is now holding on by a few bolts and will soon be relieved of her duties.

7.01.2008

HO?

I'm not sure how to title this one because I'm sitting still as a stone and am headed neither West nor East. How sad. Our travels brought us safely into the drive at 10pm. Dad had a nice little tray of snacks ready for us out at the gazebo when we got home -- fresh-made tabouli, avocado salsa and hummus, all wrought by his own hand. Yum. He brought out our favorite wine glasses and a chilled decanter of white for me and mom. I mention all of these little details because it all served in making the re-entry not quite such a let-down as it has been in the past. Another thing that helped was the fact that the weather in Nashville is unusually GORgeous and cool. I am praying with all my might that God would allow whatever forces are at work to make this beauty possible stay in control for a lot longer than a couple of days.

We are sitting outside this morning with coffee served in the new hand-painted Mexican cups we bought in Santa Fe, dad's watering and clipping things, the cat is rolling around in the driveway, mom is cleaning out the cooler from the trip, the breeze blows from time to time and I am in a bit of a water-trickle-induced trance (there's a fountain sort of thing out here by the gardens, it's not in my head or anything), wondering what I'm going to do with myself now that we're home. I'm pretty sure that there will be some art that results from my travels, hopefully some more writing, and...fixing my truck. More on that later. Something special could be in store for my sweet 1971 GMC pick-up.

Something could also be in store for the Airstream -- mom and I started to dream on the way home about the small things we can do to get her on the right track. "Her" being "the trailer." I'm just going to have to start chipping away at small things I can accomplish, and leave big things like replacing the holding tank and sub-floor until a certain friend of mine who is good with wood has arrived in Nashville. I think I might be able to arrange a barter whereby we will exchange one new sub-floor for home-cooked meals, including pie, for as long as it takes to install said sub-floor. In the meantime, I can chip paint, clean, replace drawer pulls, scrape messy caulking, and speak lovingly to her. When she's ready, we can all look forward to new adventures in my next travel log. Thanks for reading, whoever you are.

6.30.2008

WESTWARD HO: DAY TEN

"East." I've always thought it an uglier word than "west." "West" has so much promise and has such a moving, refreshing, almost whooshing sound. "East" just sounds flat and whiny. Nonetheless, we have left Pike's Peak behind us and are now in the flaaaaaaaaat landscape of Kansas, headed back east. We decided that we'd like to take something other than I-40 back home, so I-70 is our return path. There's something a little more poetic about Kansas than about Oklahoma, although I can't really put my finger on it or words to it. I suppose I could try. The air, today at least, cool and tempered by a breeze that never seems to falter. The colors. The pale, whispery, light butter color of ripe grain, the lush, dark green carpet of almost-there corn and alfalfa, the soft, powdery, cocoa brown of the stubbly fields that have already born their crops and been hacked low for the next tilling....I've tried to photograph it millions of times, but I'll be darned if I can't get on the paper what I see with my eyes.

(We've stopped at a travel stop in Colby, Kansas, the "Oasis of the High Plains." There are plastic palm trees in the median just to drive the point home. A stupid little yippy chihuahua is sniffing and watering the grass and alternating blinks and stares at the passers-by with his big buggy eyes. I get annoyed at dumb-looking dogs for no reason at all.)

Back on the road, the oil rigs out in the fields are pumping steadily and so mom and I have been prompted to wonder and dialogue about our government and our sad lack of self-sufficiency as a nation. The cost of gasoline on this trip is, as you may have guessed, almost as much as a plane ticket would have been. To think that we live in a time where flying over our beautiful country is more economical than driving through its middle, well....ugh. What a depressing notion. I don't pretend to understand any of it as well as my Uncles Mike, Bob and John do, but I do understand the simple concept of being good, thoughtful stewards of what we have been given in this rich land. The oats out to the south are glowing bright yellow and waving gently in the winds that blow across the plains. The lonely power lines and the irrigation systems that disappear into the blue distance make me wonder, "who does all this work??" Sometimes it's just too much for me to think about, kind of like heaven or the endlessness of the sky or the human eyeball; my brain shuts down after a few moments of considering. But there are little clumps of trees out in the middle of this expanse of green, yellow and blue. In the shady, silvery groves, sturdy farmhouses and outbuildings sustain busy families -- the hearty people who do all of this work. This was my grandfather.

After learning more about the lives of grandpa and his siblings as young people, I now know that Philip was the son who stayed at home on the farm while his brothers went to the towns to wear suits and ties and to find work in the automotive business and eat occasional lunches at the corner cafes. He learned everything his father knew about working a farm and quite often necessity was the mother of invention, or at least the mother of going about his tasks in a more unorthodox, homespun fashion. When their family moved to the farm in Wyoming from Nebraska, when my mom was a toddler, the place had no running water or electricity. He appealed to the Rural Electricity Association and asked, if he dug the holes for a quarter mile's worth of posts, if they would run the wires to the house. Can you imagine?? The ten-foot-deep holes for that many posts, dug without the aid of anything but manual machinery? Then he wired the house for electric and outfitted it for water which he ran from the nearby well. I know, I know, everyone did these sorts of things back then, but it doesn't lessen my fascination with the lives my ancestors lived.

One of my favorite stories about farm life is when my mom was a little girl of eight, and had the chore of gathering the eggs. One Spring afternoon, a morning's worth of arguing with her mother had gotten her nowhere. It was cold and muddy, and furthermore there were ornery sheep and angry chickens that surely had her in their sights. Martha was given the bowl and firmly ordered outside to garner the fruits of the hens' labors. She was wearing one of her favorite sweaters, one of the steel blue pullover sort, and her unbuckled galoshes and started out the door. As she walked, she glanced sideways at the barn which was not far off, because she knew the temperament of the few sheep that lived there, and always made a point to steer clear of their territory. Inside the smelly henhouse, the odds were not in her favor: there were twenty of them and one of her. Each time she ventured her hand into the pens, she invariably got pecked by their sharp, greedy beaks. But after completing her duties, without too many battle wounds, and striding carefully through the muck holding a colander full of pretty brown eggs, she started back toward the house. I can only suppose that the sheep had nothing better to do than terrorize the farmer's daughter, and so they began their stealthy trot in her direction. It remains unknown (or unremembered) whether they actually knocked her down with rough butts from their hard noses or whether she got so scared and started an unwieldy run, but whatever it was, it caused slippage and spillage. Meanwhile, grandpa was in the barn and had seen the woolly beasts lumbering toward his little girl and ran across the yard to head them off. He hollered loudly, waved his arms to call them off and kicked one of the sheep, but his leg came down and landed on the back of the bleating animal, sending him flailing to the ground and landing on his back, mud flying. Likewise, little Martha ended up, muddied and now holding mostly broken eggs, on the dirty ground of the barnyard. I have imagined this scene so many times over in my head, and every time it has caused a spontaneous chuckle. Oh that I could have known what was going through grandma's head when the soiled pair came back toward the house. What must she have said? "Oh con-sarn-it! Ooooohhhh dear!" I have the advantage of knowing what her voice sounded like. You, dear reader, do not (unless you're a family member, and if you are, you know what I'm talking about).

We are almost to Salina, Kansas. The shadows in the fields are growing longer and darker, although the sun still has a-ways to go before she settles in for good. We'll be tucking in at Lawrence for the night, just east of Kansas City, and then will complete the trek tomorrow. Mom has done all of the driving today so that I could write, so I'll have my fair share of road awaiting me in the morning. I suppose we'll be making some eggs on the propane grill for dinner. It's all we've got left in the cooler and also, eggs are really never a bad idea. Especially when there are English muffins, tomatoes, green chiles and cold beer to accompany. We just drove past a semi truckload of pigs. On their way to market, maybe? Poor things. Hmmm, maybe we should also have some sausage with our eggs.....

6.29.2008

WESTWARD HO: DAY NINE

After a morning's drive from Canon City through some desolate and beautiful terrain, and then more time than I'd have liked spent kvetching over trying to get connected to the wireless internet at our Colorado Springs KOA, we are now wearing perfume and cowboy boots and are on our way north to check out a few points of interest. Historic Manitou Springs, which we just drive through, is like Gatlinburg and Estes Park and Epcot Center all mushed together, and with the Rocky Mountain foothills as the backdrop. It's a cool and overcast afternoon, and we're in search of an early dinner in just the perfect little mountain niche.

Well, we found our niche. It looked a little gaudy and over-sold from the tiny road we were on, but when we stepped inside and then out onto the patio, we were easily convinced. Long, slender leaves rustled in the treetops and the creek eased by with a steady, rhythmic trickle. The multi-tiered deck included a 'Cookshack' where they smoke their own meats (and heads of garlic!) and inside there was a counter where a congenial man wearing a Boston Red Sox cap poured little dribbles of Colorado wines for us to taste. He told me that his first wife was from Nashville and that she hailed from Belle Meade. When I raised my eyebrows he said with a wink, "I should have hung on to her, huh?" Nice folks, really good smoked salmon filet with fresh greens, a honey-scented, subtly floral Sauvignon Blanc from a place called the Holy Cross Abbey (back in little old Canon CIty), and sudden rain with its lingering scent that fell as we ate all combined to make it a pleasant experience. On our drive back we stopped off for a little detour at the Broadmoor Hotel, pink stuccoed and red-roofed.. I knew this place first from a painting (which at first I couldn't recall) by one of my favorite artists of all time: Maxfield Parrish. When I saw it in real time tonight, something didn't seem right, but then when I read that the owner of the hotel allowed him to rearrange the pieces of the landscape puzzle, putting mountains and lake anywhere he deemed appropriate, it made sense.

This wireless access is as unreliable as a cloud, so I am going to post something before it becomes nothing. Tomorrow we start east. Does that mean I have to call my writings "Eastward Ho?" Doesn't quite have the same ring....

6.28.2008

WESTWARD HO: DAY EIGHT

Homemade spumoni, a real bed, as in 'with a mattress,' hijacked wi-fi, Dave Letterman, air-conditioning. All things for which mom and I are almost crying with gratitude. We had reserved a campsite in the foothills (not having a tent) and were determined to sleep in the Ford. We pulled up at the Royal Gorge KOA (just west of Pueblo, CO) which had boasted a pool, being "right on the Arkansas River," charming little groves of Pinon trees and a cafe on site. When we finally found the place, after rolling past the boarded-up cafe and go-kart lanes, and after a drive through the dusty, scrubbish, awkwardly sloped sites, I sized it all up as looking much like the perfect setting for some B-grade horror film, "KOA: Killer On the Arkansas." The story line of this movie would have been well fortified by the fact that the Colorado Territorial Correctional Facility was a few miles away. We made our getaway.

We are now happily nestled in at the Canon City Best Western, after a tasty, economical dinner at Merlino's Belvedere Italian Restaurant, a local institution since 1946 (which is where the aforementioned, seemingly misplaced spumoni came from). A hearty breeze is blowing outside, a day of walking (in Santa Fe) and driving (up I-25) is behind us, and we feel like doing absolutely nothing tomorrow, so that might be exactly what we do. Our plans have changed and we won' t be heading more northish to Boulder. A friend who needed a ride back east doesn't need the ride anymore, so we'll be heading home a bit sooner than expected. Although "soon" is a relative term, because we're sort of inching our way back, meaning that tomorrow we're only going as far as the Colorado Springs KOA. Sound ridiculous? Like I said, we feel like doing nothing.

I'm just tapped. More on Day Nine.

WESTWARD HO: DAY SEVEN

We have made the official shove-off from town life. Albuquerque has been left, quite literally, in the dust -- lots of it. We have traveled north on I 25 and are now on a bbbbbuummppppyyyy road, headed east to pick up the Turquoise Trail, which will wind us north again through lots of little mining towns until we finally reach Santa Fe. We have opted for the rougher road. It is becoming clearer as we drive further into the pinon trees and the sagebrush, and as the road gets rockier. It's not working so well for me that I just drank an entire 32 oz. Nalgene of water. There are barbed wire fences along the way. The vertical portions of the fence are mostly branches and sticks -- really, just sticks -- that the wire has been crudely attached to. I think the wire is even attached to the odd tree that happens to be in its path. Okay seriously, my teeth are about to fall out of my head with travel on this pock-marked road. My contacts might even pop out of my eyes and the dashboard might dislodge from the impact, so I'll be chiming in again when we've reached a smoother surface.

We are now driving on actual pavement with actual double yellow lines running below us. Just after I signed off a while back, the woman in the truck in front of us waved her dark hand out the window and asked "Would you like to buy some jewelry?" Her name was Fanny Garcia and she and her daughter-in-law were on their way to the small town of Madrid to sell to the little stores there. Mom and I stood at the tailgate of their pick-up and combed over their wares. Mom and I both chose turquoise necklaces for the lowlowprice of $25 each which is a steal, considering I almost bought a much less lovely one in Albuquerque for $50. We stopped in Madrid and shuffled through a couple of shops (saw some bad Gatlinburgish glass art), the second of which is owned by a man whose former occupation was as a display artist for Anthropologie. I could have spent much, much more time there. Everything was so artfully, cleverly displayed. Bundles of raw twig pencils, old pairs of shears collected in apothecary jars, a rusty, mint green mine shaft car topped with glass serving as a table, about fifty or so old Mason jars hung with natural twine from a huge pulley over a table which will soon be wired as a chandelier, rough mountain rocks used for display in the jewelry cases, original art by the owners of the store and local artisans, just a little too much for me to take in all at once. I admit I bought a little something...s.

We ate lunch at a little spot called the Ghost Town Cafe, a.k.a. The No Pity Cafe. We sat next to a fountain and underneath a lovely tree. We shared an egg salad, cucumber and avocado sandwich on warm flatbread and a warm beet and blue cheese salad with spicy cayenne walnuts. I think the goodness was probably amplified by the cool mountain breeze, the turquoise sky and the twittering birds, but man-oh-man, it was good.

When we finally arrived in Santa Fe, the sky was bluer and the adobe walls everywhere glowed bright golden-orange against it. We strolled around the square and dropped into a few musty shops where it seemed that everything comes from India or China instead of the surrounding areas. Um, no thanks. The black socks and fanny packs that appear on the bodies of all manner of tourists still amaze me. People actually spend time thinking about it and ultimately decide that those are good ideas. Incredible. We enjoyed an enchanting alfresco dinner at a little place just off 285N called Gabriel's. After being seated in the courtyard, we completely forgot that the driveway to the place was right off the exit ramp. The only clue was the odd Harley grumbling by. A young fellow made guacamole in a large, black molcajete by our table and our margaritas were ice cold with rims perfectly salted. Our table had a view of the Sangre de Cristo mountains and the air was crisp and cool. The beef, red snapper and scallop fajitas, the homemade tortillas and the generous side dish of green chile sang with flavor and freshness as we moaned our way through dinner. Oh, heaven and earth, it was dreamy. As we floated out through the arbor corridor to the parking lot, we felt the satisfaction of knowing we had just had the very meal for which we traveled all this way,

6.25.2008

WESTWARD HO: DAY SIX

I'm at a total loss as to where to begin. This was a great day, but it began with the not-so-fun farewell to a few family members. We sent Bob, Amy and Wade back to Wyoming, but before we did, and much to Wade's chagrin, we took more group pictures than could ever be necessary. Marion and Nadine took great pains in directing/fussing/bossing about who should go where and who should smile how. We hugged and kissed and laughed until our bellies ached, then hugged and kissed some more.












































































Like I said, I'm at a loss for words tonight, so I think I might need to revert to the lazy man's method: The Almighty List.
- We ascended Sandia Peak on the world's longest tram ride. It swung a little too much for my tastes at certain points, but we made it safely to the top, took pictures, ate lunch on Aunt Marion's tab (I love this woman, for many more reasons than only the fact that her logic for buying nine people's lunch was that she had "only bought three postcards so far on this trip!!"), we observed the wildfires burning miles away from a safe distance, took more pictures, learned a little about rocks and indigenous mushrooms and rattlesnakes, and sailed back down.
- We spent the afternoon back at the hotel looking at more photos. Below are just a few that made me either laugh myself silly (Aunt Nell with her scrunched-up nose and twisty lips) or just caused me to be more curious about the family members I never knew (is it okay for me to fall in love with my own movie star of a great uncle whom I never knew?) and more frustrated that there's so much we'll never know (grandpa could have answered all of my questions if I'd known what to ask). Why did we wait?
- The evening time was spent in one of the suites with good cheese and wine and music and more laughter (has it become obvious yet that we laugh a lot?) and finally, really getting to know each other. As I predicted, this has happened the day before we have to part ways with our California/Arizona contingent. It's just the way it goes. We can't force it -- comfort and ease have to come in their own time rather than be yanked into the present. There's truly so much to say after today, but if I attempt to write it all in my stuporiffic haze, it will come out upside-down and inside-out and bass-ackwards. Instead, I'll post a few pictures which might help communicate what this day was all about (I welcome any queries).....